Adding a Router at the right-hand side of a Table Saw is common practice. Therefore, we set down to evaluate a possible installation and provide an example of one of the many Router Lift plans available. We chose the one designed by John Heisz (plans available at ibuildit.ca) as it appears to be more adaptable to routers that have odd shaped bodies. The installation shown in the following article uses one of such routers and provides guidelines on the devised mounting method.
Of course the basic plan required a few changes in the installation method to adapt it to the available space. Another improvement introduced was a slight change in the angle of the inclined slot used to raise the bit. The redesigned slot provides an exact 1mm of lift with each turn of the handwheel.
There is also a different approach to dust collection that works completely under the table and does away with the hose on top.
Another important feature is a Router Fence that can be interchanged with the present Rip Fence and benefits with the micro-adjustment of the T-square.
The next version of our plans (which will soon be available) will include full details of the whole addition.
Andre's Router is of European manufacture and has a non-cylindrical body. Therefore this is a suitable example on how he tackled the installation. There are two sides snugly pressing the Router Body with holes that fit over the stubs that held the original handles. The long bar in the collet will help in installing the Router perpendicular to the Table.
There is a hex-head bolt at the main Carriage panel to adjust perpendicularity. The Router body pivots around the handle stubs.
A view from the bottom shows the bolt end that moves the whole Router as already explained.
A general view from the other side taken during the building of the Lift.
Here you can see the Lift already installed inside the Cabinet. The Router is completely encased in a box closed only at the top. Ventilation happens inside this box and suitable outlets are provided. There is a small gap between this box and the Dust Collector Motor and Filter Compartment.
A view from the top with the Manifold at the right.
Underside view of the Lift showing the Manifold's elbow connection.
View from the opposite side shows the air outlet for the Router motor.
The finished installation. Weatherstripping all around ensures an airtight fit against the underside of the Table.
The controls on the right side of the Cabinet. The metal strip was added for a neater appearance.
A first version of the Fence installed on the prototype Saw. Here the dust pickup is placed above the fence.
The Locking Knob in the "T" square was relocated to avoid interference with the outfeed side of the Fence.
The Locking Clamp at the infeed end of the Fence. Turning the Knob pulls a wooden wedge that clamps to the edge of the table. There is a 1mm thick rubber strip contact-cemented to the edge for a non-slip, very firm clamping action.
MDF blocks with sloped edges may be clamped between the adjustable Fence Halves. Pushing the Fence towards the bit will create a zero clearance insert. Another alternative is having several inserts with ready-made openings to fit different sized bits.
For his Saw, Andre opted for a much wider Router Fence to avoid relocating the Micro-adjustment Lock Knob. He heightened this Knob for better access. To set the Router Fence on the "T" Square he simply unscrews the Lock Knob that holds the Rip Fence on the long arm, removes that Fence and drops the Router Fence from above onto the T-Bolt. Replaces the Knob and tightens it to lock the new Fence in place.
Note that the hole for the Lock Knob has not been drilled yet.
In this view the holes for the bit and the dust pickup can be clearly seen. Note the dust chamber behind. It has a slanted cover.
The infeed end has a stout clamp that grips the Table edge for a firm mount.
Another closer view of the dust pickup chamber.
End view of a Fence Half showing the mounting track and the face track.
A final view of the adjustable Fence Halves at the middle. These can be shifted to close the gap around the bit to a bare minimum. They may also be closed completely for non-through cuts.
|[ back ]